| General |
Bindings are well-designed, complex pieces of machinery and need to
be set correctly if they are to give maximum security. A binding that
releases early can be as dangerous as a binding that doesn't open at all.
To set a binding, the position of the heel piece must first be adjusted
for correct forward pressure. The height of the toe piece is adjusted
next, so that the anti-friction device (AFD) can effectively release the
boot when necessary. If applicable, the wings on the toe piece are then
adjusted so that your boots are centred. Finally, the DIN settings are
adjusted.
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| Plates |
All bindings now have some sort of plate mounted between the ski and
the actual binding. The resulting extra height increases the leverage
you have onto your edges. It also helps to prevent 'booting out' - a term
used to describe what happens when you go over onto your edge and your
boot touches the snow.
Some of these plates are also designed to flex with the ski, reducing the dead spot under the binding and therefore improving the snow contact.
Still not sure? Consult our our ski doctor
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| DIN Settings |
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This scale - otherwise known as the Deutsche Industrie Norm - is standardised
across all makes of bindings. The appropriate setting depends on your
weight, boot size, height and level of skiing. Any injuries should also
be taken into account.
Front and rear bindings tend to be set on the same number and both skis
are usually set the same. Injuries may affect these.
As a guideline the following chart can be used:
| ADULT DIN CHART (UNDER 50) |
| Weight Kg |
35 |
40 |
45 |
50 |
60 |
65 |
70 |
80 |
| DIN |
3 |
3.5 |
4 |
4.5 |
5 |
5.5 |
6 |
7 |
We do strongly advise that you get a qualified or experienced
technician to set your bindings and always get it done with your own ski
boot.
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